NAIROBI, Kenya - Skin lightening products containing dangerous and illegal levels of mercury are being sold openly in Kenyan markets and online, a Streamline News investigation can reveal. This is occurring despite a ban by the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) and clear scientific evidence of severe health risks, including kidney damage, neurological disorders, and skin scarring.

The World Health Organization (WHO) has identified mercury in skin lightening products as a significant public health concern. The toxic heavy metal is used to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. However, prolonged use can lead to a host of debilitating health problems. According to the WHO and other health bodies, these include kidney damage, skin rashes and discoloration, anxiety, depression, psychosis, and nerve damage. Pregnant women, nursing babies, and young children are particularly vulnerable to the toxic effects of mercury.

In Kenya, KEBS has officially banned numerous skin lightening creams, lotions, and soaps containing mercury and another harmful agent, hydroquinone. In October 2022, KEBS announced the seizure of 435 banned cosmetic products, including 46 creams and 10 soaps containing mercury. The agency regularly updates its list of banned products on its website and warns the public against their use, stating they should only be used upon the advice of a medical doctor. Despite these efforts, the products continue to find their way onto shelves and into homes.

REGULATORY CHALLENGES AND POROUS BORDERS

The continued availability of these toxic products highlights significant challenges in regulation and enforcement. A 2022 report by the Zero Mercury Working Group found that products with mercury levels as high as 14,000 parts per million (ppm) were available for purchase on Kenyan e-commerce sites like Jiji, Jumia, and Kilimall. The legal limit for mercury as a trace impurity in cosmetics is 1 ppm, as stipulated by the Minamata Convention on Mercury, to which Kenya is a signatory.

KEBS officials acknowledge that smuggling through porous borders is a major contributor to the problem. Many of the illegal products are imported from Asia and distributed through complex networks that are difficult to dismantle. Raids on shops in areas like Nairobi's Eastleigh and River Road have resulted in seizures and arrests, but the trade persists. The anonymity of online marketplaces presents a further challenge for regulators trying to curb the illegal trade.

THE SOCIAL COST OF A MULTI-BILLION DOLLAR INDUSTRY

The demand for skin lightening products in Kenya is driven by complex social and cultural factors, including the historical preference for lighter skin tones rooted in colonialism. This has fueled a global market projected to be worth $11.8 billion by 2026. A 2011 WHO report indicated that 40% of African women bleach their skin. In Kenya, these products are marketed to women, and increasingly men, with the promise of beauty, social mobility, and professional success.

Research conducted in Nairobi County has pointed to body image as a significant factor influencing the use of skin bleaching products, despite awareness of the health risks. Consumers are often unaware of the specific dangers of mercury or are misled by packaging that fails to list the toxic ingredient. The products are sold at a wide range of price points, making them accessible even to lower-income individuals who may opt for cheaper, potentially more dangerous, formulations.

EAST AFRICAN COMMUNITY EFFORTS

At a regional level, the East African Community (EAC), of which Kenya is a member, has been working to harmonize standards for cosmetics to ensure product safety and facilitate trade. Draft regulations have set maximum limits for heavy metals like mercury and arsenic in cosmetics. These harmonized standards aim to create a unified regulatory environment, making it more difficult for illicit products to circulate within the bloc. However, the effectiveness of these regional standards depends on robust implementation and enforcement at the national level.

Health experts and regulatory bodies urge consumers to exercise extreme caution. They advise purchasing cosmetics only from reputable retailers, checking for KEBS certification, and scrutinizing product labels for banned ingredients. Anyone who has used products they suspect contain mercury and is experiencing symptoms is advised to stop immediately and consult a doctor for blood and urine testing.