The "Government of Hope" has returned to Khartoum, but for the weary residents of Sudan’s war-ravaged capital, hope is a commodity as scarce as electricity. After nearly three years of brutal civil war, the administration of Prime Minister Kamil Idris is attempting to govern from the ruins, but the reality on the ground is stark and unforgiving.

The symbolic move from Port Sudan back to Khartoum was meant to signal normalcy. Instead, it has highlighted the sheer scale of the devastation. Once a vibrant metropolis where the Blue and White Niles meet, Khartoum is now a shell of its former self, scarred by artillery, looted by militias, and reclaimed by the desert.

"Living in the Stone Age"

For returnees like Bal Ahmed, the governments return has yet to translate into tangible relief. "Its like we re living in the stone age," he told reporters, standing beside a clay pot that now serves as his refrigerator. The power grid is dead. Water taps are dry. The infrastructure that sustained millions has been obliterated.

The Finance Ministry courtyard is overgrown with a "jungle of weeds," and unexploded ordnance (UXO) still litters the streets. Warning signs mark "red zones" where one wrong step could mean death.

• The Cost of Rebuilding: The UN estimates it will take over $350 million (approx. Ksh 45 billion) just to restore basic essential services. The full reconstruction bill runs into the billions of dollars.
• A Fragile Peace: While the army has retaken the city centre, the Rapid Support Forces (RSF) still lurk on the periphery, and fighting rages in Kordofan. The "safety" of Khartoum is relative and fragile.
• Resilience of the People: Despite the desolation, tea sellers like Halima Ishaq have reclaimed their spots under the trees. "Business is not good," she admits, but her presence is an act of defiance against the chaos.

A Monumental Task

The government has promised a "gradual" return to services, but patience is wearing thin. The return to Khartoum is a political victory, but a logistical nightmare.

As the sun sets over the blackened shell of the Central Bank, the people of Sudan are left to rebuild their lives brick by broken brick, waiting for the lights to finally flicker back on.