A Culinary Complaint with Global Implications

BRUSSELS–A seemingly minor culinary complaint has escalated into a significant trade and cultural dispute after Italy’s Minister of Agriculture, Francesco Lollobrigida, on Wednesday, November 19, 2025 (EAT), demanded an investigation into “Italian-sounding” pasta sauces sold at the European Parliament’s supermarket. The incident has cast a spotlight on the global challenge of protecting food authenticity and the economic value of national brands, an issue with profound relevance for Kenya and its key agricultural exports.

Mr. Lollobrigida, a member of Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni’s Brothers of Italy party, expressed his objections after discovering sauces that, while not claiming to be made in Italy, used imagery and names evocative of Italian cuisine. Specifically, he cited a carbonara sauce made with pancetta instead of the traditional guanciale (cured pork jowl) and a tomato sauce referencing “onions from Calabria.” The products, sold by the Belgian supermarket chain Delhaize, feature the Italian flag on their packaging, which Rome argues is a deceptive practice.

The High Cost of 'Italian Sounding'

The term “Italian sounding” refers to a global market of products that use Italian words, colours, and symbols to suggest an authentic origin they do not possess. This market is a significant economic drain on Italy. According to Italy's largest agribusiness association, Coldiretti, the trade in fake Italian products costs the country €120 billion annually. Other estimates place the global turnover of the “Italian-sounding” market at around €90 billion, a figure that has grown substantially over the past decade. This phenomenon means that for every authentic Italian food product sold worldwide, several imitations are competing against it, often at a lower price point.

The core of the dispute lies in European Union regulations designed to protect consumers from misleading information about a product's country of origin. The EU maintains a stringent system of Geographical Indications (GIs), including Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), which legally protect the names of products from specific regions that follow traditional production methods. Italy argues that using its flag and regional names on inauthentic products exploits the reputation of its protected goods and misleads consumers, even if no explicit claim of origin is made.

Lessons for Kenya's Prized Exports

This European food fight offers a critical case study for Kenya as it seeks to protect its own high-value agricultural brands on the international stage. Kenya is a world-renowned producer of premium coffee and tea, yet it often fails to capture the full economic value of its products due to the export of unbranded bulk commodities. For instance, in 2024, Kenya exported significantly more tea by volume than competitors like China and Sri Lanka but earned nearly the same revenue, as it primarily sold unpackaged tea to lower-value markets.

Recognizing this challenge, Kenyan authorities are actively exploring the use of Geographical Indications to brand and protect its tea. On November 14, 2025, the Tea Board of Kenya announced a feasibility study, supported by French development agencies, to assess the potential for establishing GIs for tea from regions like the Aberdare ranges, Mt. Kenya, and the Kericho Highlands. The goal is to differentiate Kenyan tea based on its unique origin and quality, allowing it to command premium prices and secure greater returns for farmers. The Kenya Industrial Property Institute (KIPI) has already registered certification marks like 'Coffee Kenya' to begin building this brand protection.

The fight against food fraud and misleading labelling is also a domestic concern. Cases of meat substitution and the use of unauthorized preservatives have been reported in Kenya, undermining consumer trust and posing public health risks. Globally, food fraud is estimated to cost the industry between $30 and $40 billion annually, disrupting supply chains and destabilizing food security.

Next Steps in the Brussels Dispute

Following Mr. Lollobrigida's complaint, the Brothers of Italy party's delegation in the European Parliament announced it would submit a formal letter to the parliament's president, Roberta Metsola, demanding action. The party insists that the use of Italian symbols on non-Italian products constitutes a deceptive practice under EU law. As of Thursday, November 20, 2025, the supermarket chain Delhaize had not issued a public response to the allegations. FURTHER INVESTIGATION REQUIRED.

The outcome of this investigation could reinforce the EU's stringent labelling rules, providing a stronger precedent for countries like Kenya. For Kenyan policymakers and exporters, Italy's passionate defence of its culinary heritage is a clear demonstration of the immense value tied to a nation's brand. Protecting the integrity of names like "Kenya Tea" and "Kenya Coffee" is not merely a matter of pride, but a crucial economic strategy for sustainable growth and fair trade in a competitive global market.